Sunday, 14 August 2016

Bialetti or nothing !


Some habits are not easily forgotten, especially when involving familiar fragrances.
As the French Prout wrote, we all have a ‘madeleine’ – a trigger that brings us back to a nostalgic moment of our past.
For Claudia, this trigger involves a Bialetti Moka Express coffeemaker.

Every morning during her childhood, Claudia woke up to the delicious smell of coffee that her granddad prepared for the family. The fragrance would fill the house from top to bottom. Nice, in Provence, is one of the parts of France that once was Italian – and it can still be felt in its culinary traditions. The infamous Bialetti Moka coffeemaker was a normal part of Claudia’s household habits, but it would have been true for her neighbours too. 

What does this coffeemaker mean for Mediterranean people?
                                       
                                                                              
The ritual of coffee making with a Bialetti has been well summarised this way:

“Unscrew the water compartment and fill it up exactly the right amount.
Open the pot of freshly ground coffee beans, inhale the characteristic smell.
Add a few spoonful of the brown coarse powder in the funnel.
Insert the funnel on top of the water compartment and screw it back to the top with just the right amount of strength. Simple and familiar gestures, anticipating the intense happiness of that moment when the coffee fragrance spreads in the kitchen, accompanied by the simultaneous gurgling of the coffeemaker.”
(The water is pressured by the heat through the funnel, acquiring the flavour of the ground coffee and ending in the top compartment with a gurgling sound)

The magic of this small coffeemaker also lies in its familiar shape which stays practically unchanged since its invention in 1933. 


Alphonse Bialetti worked in aluminium (tin) industry in France then returned to his country after WW1 in 1918. He observed local women wash clothing using a type of washer with a central tube that spread the hot soapy water evenly. He imagined using this system for a coffeemaker and after years of experimentation, the Moka Express was created with a patent from Luigi De Ponti.
However it was Alphonse’s son, Renato, which made of the Bialetti such a hit. This was after WW2 : using the new concepts of marketing emerging at the time, Renato drew a caricature of his father as a moustached, small and chubby man with his finger raised to obtain a coffee. This image combined with the slogan “An espresso at home as in the coffee shop!” transformed Bialetti into the legendary brand that it is now.

Since that time many different machines and techniques to make espresso have been invented, notably with capsule-types machines meant for domestic use. However in Hongrie, we are not very fond of those: not only do they create much waste, cost excessively and reduce the range of coffee beans that people consume, but we cannot get used to their lack of gurgling sounds effects.


We stayed loyal customers of Bialetti, with all its different sizes, accumulating an army of little moustache men to provide for busy breakfast times. Their presence is a reassuring feeling and the coffee aroma they produce is now part of our life habits. We welcome discussion about coffee choices during breakfast time, but you have been warned that we are biased!

Bialetti: what else?

Thursday, 4 August 2016

Recipe: Pissaladière or Onion tart provençal-style



Pissaladière is one of the culinary speciality of Nice, where Claudia was born, and her favourite. Often nicknamed "onion pizza", this very simple recipe is indeed to Nice cuisine what pizza is to Italian cuisine.
However there are no tomatoes in the recipe of pissaladière, just a lot, and more, of onions! The onions are the key ingredient: thinly cut and stewed until they release a sweet flavour.
The name of this dish comes from "pissalat", or salted fish in Nice dialect, and evolved into "Pissaladiera". Pissalat originally designated a type of salted fish mash or puree made from anchovies and alevins of sardines, but nowadays young fish is protected by fishing laws so it has been replaced by pure anchovy puree. 

Ingredients:
1 roll of puff pastry (in France rolls come in circles; but the shape doesn't matter as long as it fits an oven)
1,5 to 2kg of white onions
Anchovy paste (usually comes in tubes,  1/4 of tube is enough, keep the rest in the fridge)
12 anchovies fillets in oil
3 garlic cloves, 
Thyme 
Olive oil
Salt & pepper
A handful of black olives, if possible strong taste (those of Nice are preferred)

Recipe
In Nice traditionally, the puff pastry is hand-made ahead of the cooking time, but an organic ready-made puff pastry roll is a good substitute.
The most important aspect is of course to cook the onions properly. Slicethe onions thinly, not in cubes, more like slightly thicker than minced onions.
Cook them in a pan with three garlic cloves still in their skin and a bouquet of thyme. Stew slowly until the onion becomes transparent and juicy, for about an hour. ¾ in the cooking time, add anchovy paste to salt the onions and give it its specific taste. The onion should never caramelise, careful supervision is best to obtain a sweet puree or compote.
Start the oven at 180 C.


When the onion is cooked, take the garlic and thyme away, taste to adjust salt if necessary, add pepper. Unroll the puff pastry on a cooking tray, cover with onion mix almost reaching the edges of the pastry.
Display the anchovy fillets in checked pattern on top of the onions: traditionally we form diamonds with a black olive marking the middle.

Put in the oven for half and hour until the pastry is cooked and the onions slightly caramelised. Enjoy still warm with a refreshing glass of chilled rosé wine from Provence.
So simple, yet divine... can be a starter or a meal depending on how many you serve.